In the heart of Little Italy on a warm spring evening, patio lights illuminate picnic tables and the faces of smokers and diners crowded outside of the bar. People gather at Three Aces to raise a glass to good food and good people, enjoying exceptional bar fare inspired by fresh, seasonal ingredients.
Inside the pub, tattooed bartenders and servers maneuver around each other, creating drinks and delivering meals with a relaxed purpose. Diners lounge in black leather barstools and booths, reading menus by candlelight as the house system provides an indie rock soundtrack. A vinyl turntable and Pioneer mixer rest at the end of the bar, hinting at the night’s future entertainment (other nights feature live acts).
The cuisine is a hodge-podge of gourmet Italian plates with the familiarity of comfort food and the boutique flare of a gastro pub. The menu categorizes dishes by farm, mill, sea and barn, also with a “pizzetta” section and selections of sides and bar bites until 1 a.m.
The farm section highlights harvested delights like duck egg (with “fontina fonduta”, prosciutto and scallions) and kale salad with roasted beets, candied pecans, goat cheese and salmon roe. The mill dishes accentuate the versatility of grain in dishes like chicken thigh tortellini, mint gnocchi and carrot risotto. Broiled head-on shrimp with salsa and sunchoke puree, and Allagash White-soaked mussels with grilled ramps and lemon zest dominate the sea group.
The most coveted delicacy of Three Aces from the barn section called the Ace Burger is a juicy seasoned beef patty topped with aged cheddar, signature bacon jam, trimmings and aioli. I’ve seen a diner order one meal and then order the Ace Burger halfway through his first entr’ÛΩe.
“Every time I think I want to try something different, but I always end up with that burger,” said the diner.
Brunch is served until 4 p.m. daily – an appreciated rarity outside of chain diners. Early day diners devour down-home brunch classics, ranging from pancakes (with strawberry-rhubarb preserves) to fried eggs (with bacon, ramps and shallot). Heartier options include pale-ale biscuits and gravy, breakfast poutine with egg and bacon Sriracha, and thick pork belly with cheddar grits and fried onions.
Three Aces allures a regular clientele not just through the menu, but also by being a neighborhood waterhole with a humbly extravagant collection of American craft beer, many of them local brews. The list updates with the newest micro blends and creations, like Not Your Father’s Root Beer, a 10 percent ABV (a 19.5 percent option also exists) herbed/spiced beer , brewed in Illinois, that goes down like a creamy glass of root beer with a bit more potency – and alcohol content.
Three Aces is one of those places where you want to become a regular, if for no other reason than to try every item on the menu and beer list.