Advertisement
The Student Newspaper of DePaul University

The DePaulia

The Student Newspaper of DePaul University

The DePaulia

The Student Newspaper of DePaul University

The DePaulia

    Revolution Brewing: our little pub is all grown up

    When I first moved to Logan Square, I was ecstatic to find a nearby craft brewery with amazing food and an edgy vibe. We spend many nights in a half-empty Revolution Brewing pub (BrewPub), knocking back pints of the neighborhood’s best-kept secret. But it was too good and that gem couldn’t stay hidden forever.

    RevBrew has earned some clout in the realms of beer and food, and the masses take notice. Suddenly, a weekend bar stool or brunch table comes with an hourlong wait. I know this feeling – that jealous, righteous feeling you get when everyone starts to love your favorite underground band.

    Guests chow and slurp down Revolution treats under a glow of industrial light globes hanging from the ceiling. A crowd at the round bar watches the game on a single high-mounted flat screen while thirsty patrons marvel at the colorful fist-shaped taps as they wait for their pour.

    Upstairs, another bar and plenty of wooden tables host the constant flow of drinkers and diners. Downstairs, local art hangs above dark wood booths and a large glass wall features a view of tall metallic casks and vigorous brew-masters in the original basement brewery. The staff conducts free brewery tours on a weekly basis.

    Revolution used to have about seven home brews on hand with a few regulars and some rotating specialties. The new Kedzie Avenue brewery has empowered the boutique brewing project, increasing the number of in-house creations to over a dozen.

    The veteran brews remain on the list year-round and now appear in bars and stores all over the Midwest: Anti-Hero IPA (“an American hop assault”), Eugene Porter (“a striking, robust porter full of warmth and chocolate malt”) and Bottom Up Wit (“Belgian-style wheat beer spiced with coriander and orange peel”).

    Revolution’s novelty and seasonal beers pack on the aromatics, each one with a distinct personality. The Rosa Ale, steeped with hibiscus, drinks sweet and tart like a sparkling ros’ÛÎå. The Mother of Exiles sends your tongue through fields of mild grass and hops, finishing crisp and refreshing like a true German-style pilsner. The Crystal Hero IPA stuns you with unusual hoppiness from a forgotten fresh flavor – Crystal hops.

    RevBrew always had upscale bar cuisine to match the art brewing in the basement, but with gained popularity and increased BrewPub business, they seem to have stepped it up a notch, offering game-changing items like barbecued oysters and roasted bone marrow.

    There are some menu items that always stay the same – dependable and delicious. Cheddar ale soup is creamy and velvety on the tongue, rich and tangy on the taste buds. By the end of the bowl, your stomach is whining from both satisfaction and dairy overload. Another starter option features this delicacy in a more practical manner, as a dip for a large doughy pretzel.

    Classics are done a little better than at standard taverns. Romaine and toasty croutons in a salty and refreshing Caesar dressing crunch between my molars (a succulent whole white anchovy brings punch to the flavor). A crunchy Reuben features savory, lean corned beef, baby Swiss, sauerkraut and vegan Russian dressing. Crispy apple-wood smoked chicken wings rank among the several most addicting dishes at Revolution. A campfire aura reinvents the buffalo sauce and the blue cheese potato salad pairs magically.

    Daily specials are not something to pass up. Grilled mahi-mahi with a rejuvenating cucumber sauce “tastes like a Caribbean beach” to a frequent guest. The pork “schnitzel” proves itself unique and delightful: breaded balls of pork tenderloin and Rosa Ale-braised pork shank with plum and home-grown radish greens.

    After my meal, I wonder why my visits at RevBrew have become less frequent. I look around at the bar packed with thin men in thick-rimmed glasses, women in combat boots and a mother of two trying to keep an eye on her loose children. In all honesty, Revolution deserves the recognition and good business, but I miss my calm nights with friends at the BrewPub.