For the last month we’ve gotten a look at what fashion will look like this coming fall, and the style preview, that each season takes us all over the world, ended last week in Paris. With shows from McCartney, Marant, and McQueen, the city of lights brings out the most historic of design houses and some of the most talented names. Louis Vuitton brought out the big guns with Kate Moss, Saint Laurent’s newly found grunge sensibility got people talking, and Chanel’s show literally circled the globe, but here’s five more collections held during the final week of fashion’s most celebrated season:
Balenciaga
Fashion lovers and fashion elite alike waited with baited breath to see what exactly design superstar Alex Wang would come up with for his first collection at Balenciaga. The final result was created in a black and white palette, and the styling was kept simple and clean, with most of the focus on construction and tailoring as looks were left with very little accessories or embellishment. Tops, coats, and vests were cut from curved lines that created a voluminous, yet stiff silhouette. Hemlines on dresses and skirts were kept modest and short, while tops were often cropped, and layered under cocoon coats. The show’s last two ensembles consisted of chubby fur coats in a multi-colored marbled swirl pattern paired with velvet lace pants – two pieces definitely worth talking about. Overall, the fall showing from Balenciaga’s newest head designer proved to be a strong start, and this new era is being written about with optimism by even the most cynical of style critics.
Celine
After Celine’s show, the headline on Vogue’s homepage read “Simply Perfect: Celine Fall 2013”, a bold statement sure, but one not too far off from the truth. It mostly has to do with the fact that when viewing this collection ,the immediate impact is how not only is it sophisticated, but it looks completely comfortable – a combination not always guaranteed from design favorites. Dresses of melton wool with imitation-sleeve tied knots, and bulky knits paired on top of swingy, over-the-knee skirts were looks that appeared as cozy as they did fashionable. Soft yellow, pink, and cream were prominent colors and with the exception of a red plaid segment, print was kept out of the collection. Lastly, look for rounded shoulders and oversize lapels on outerwear this fall, two cuts from designer Phoebe Philo that will definitely be influencing brands all over.
Chloe
To follow, Chloe’s lead for Fall 2013 means well-tailored skirts and dresses paired with crisp collared shirts, completed with a knee-length wool coat or cape to create a look full of 1970s nostalgia. Or it means a sleeveless white shift dress layered under gold wire netting formed in the silhouette of a tee-shirt dress. Or it could also mean a dove gray fur coat complete with a wool collar. Better yet, Chloe’s vision for fall is all three. The completely wearable collection felt very British (not a shock as designer Clare Waight Keller is a Brit, herself) with its subdued color palette and tweed, and of course the leather oxford ankle boots making the U.K. sensibility even more apparent. In the accessories department, very little was done apart from handbags, which for Chloe, is really all that is necessary. Mustard and teal leather purses, as well as crocodile satchels are sure to be contenders for the next it-bag.
Christian Dior
It was an artistic affair at Christian Dior as designer Raf Simons had models wearing garments featuring prints of Andy Warhol’s early work, walking on clouds in a venue where a bright blue sky was projected off of giant, silver spheres. Fuller silhouettes were created with baggy suit pants and rounded hips on coatdresses, and the typical 1950s aesthetic will please Dior devotees. Simon’s palette was kept to neutrals, although a bright red coat with an oversized tie at the collar was a brilliant interruption. Besides the Warhol graphics, houndstooth was a prominent print at Dior. It was used most memorably when styled as a bodice and paired with draped, calf-length skirts. Still, the biggest story is the Warhol prints of his painted flowers and shoes, so it will be interesting to see if the pop art icon starts getting more press for his other work thanks to the house of Dior come fall.
Givenchy
Ricardo Tisci’s latest for Givenchy is so full of design elements it takes a number of look-throughs to catch all of them. The collection featured boucle and leather biker jackets paired with sheer black skirts, as well as Bambi-esque deer printed sweatshirts and tiered ruffle skirts. An all-over rose print constructed panels on the shoulders of plaid button-downs and an eye-catching design of vibrant yellows and oranges brightened up pencil skirts. Floor-length, see-through skirts made of white netting with floral embroidery ended the show on a high note, whilst the coats and jackets of the fall collection are definite standouts. The mixing of materials to create puffer coats, biker jackets, and toggle-fastened coatdresses will make for an even wider variety in outerwear, but that isn’t a new design technique. However, if the deconstructed peplum effect that ran through the collection becomes a staple next season, Mr. Tisci deserves all the credit.