Every fashion capital has its distinguishing characteristics. New York is primarily minimalistic and focused on structure. London’s “English Rose meets punk meets High Street” sensibility is always a bit quirky. Now we’re in Milan, and Milan means luxury – partly due to Milan Fashion Week (MFW) being host to some of the most recognized high-end designers in the world. So many, in fact, picking just five of the best moments of MFW was near impossible. But these Fall 2013 shows were, for better or worse, the must-sees.

Versace

Versace may be synonymous with sex appeal, but it was more “spike appeal” as Donatella Versace sent models out onto the runway sporting chokers and bracelets with silver spikes long enough to make you want to keep your distance. The potentially dangerous jewelry, along with chunky, layered chain necklaces and statement-making harnesses, were used to adorn her punk-inspired fall collection. The most talked-about aspect of the show had to be the use of vinyl – which was used for just about everything. Black vinyl pants paired with a matching nail-pierced top, a plaid coat complete with a fur collar and a structured harness over a printed tee with all-over studded black pants are two looks sure to be emulated all over style blogs. All the hard edge from the vinyl, studs and spikes had to be balanced somehow, and Versace chose to use colored and patterned fur to do so, making it even more over-the-top in that classic Versace way.

Fendi

If fur does not make your fashion heart flutter, then Karl Lagerfeld’s Fendi collection is not for you. The designer incorporated fur into his looks in every way possible. The opening section of the show featured multicolored, striped fur used to create matching tops and skirts, bags, and scarves. While asymmetrical, half-fur, half-wool coats and one knee-length coat constructed of layered black, white and pink fur stood out. Not many looks were without some use of the plush texture. Not even the jewelry or shoes managed to escape the fur adornment; however, there were a number of leather pieces with rounded hems – a cut now guaranteed to make an impact on outerwear this fall. Speaking of impacts, it wasn’t the clothes that left the biggest impression from Fendi, but instead the hair as Lagerfeld clearly committed to the fur theme and sent the models out with colored fox fur Mohawks. It’s probably best to leave that one on the runway, though.

Roberto Cavalli

Cavalli is always a show to see, not so much for the collection itself, but instead to find out where Mr. Cavalli will land on the fine line between good and bad taste. For fall 2013, things were a bit milder (yet anything seems mild when you’re showing the day after Versace). Surprisingly chic looks graced the runway, with hints of early-Chanel clearly used as inspiration. However, it is still Cavalli, so it was tame by no means. The palette was primarily black, but broken up by a graphic floral pattern printed in various colors that ran throughout the collection. The heavy embellishment of knit dresses and jackets created the flashier feel the design house is known for. And suits were wonderfully tailored to create a 1970s silhouette. Texture, fur, sequins, pleats and studs were used in abundance, but if this show depicts the direction at Cavalli, then by no means does the Italian icon need to be reminded “less is more.”

Bottega Veneta

For sophisticated, understated style, Bottega Veneta is a design house that always delivers. Designer Tomas Maier put on a clean show – no look was over-accessorized, no garment too blinding from a loud print. 1950s silhouettes were amped up with constructed pleats and origami folds, most eye-catching on the sleeves of many of the knee-length dresses. Maier’s focus on volume and shape continued to be apparent as the show went on, and a camel-colored wool dress in particular showed off an impressive use of structured fabric, creating both volume and movement as architectural folds traveled down the skirt like waves. The palette was muted overall, but vibrant pops of red and yellow livened things up a bit. Raquel Zimmermann, done up with voluminous, bouncy curls and red lips, closed the show in a black satin dress, ending on a glamorous note – a perfect representation of the luxury brand.

Dolce & Gabbana

You can say what you want about Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, but you can’t say they aren’t proud of their Italian heritage. Sicily was, yet again, the inspiration for their fall collection. More specifically, it was the Italian island’s cathedrals in the 12th century, which made itself apparent in mosaic prints, mirroring stained-glass windows done in gold with rich jewel tone accents. The elaborate beadwork and religious icon-printed patterns ran through the collection connecting shirts and dresses cut in a variety of silhouettes. If shift tops with the face of a saint were not enough to portray the spiritual significance, then ornate accessories like oversized, bejeweled cross earrings and gold crowns helped to establish the collection’s influence further. The show did feature an interlude of wool, herringbone suits and outerwear, but it was not long before the rosaries were back on display, and the traditional finale (started at the Fall 2011 show) of a model stampede closed the show, as a sea of beaded red lace hit the catwalk.