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In a long, narrow room filled with modern wood seats and communal tables, couples and larger groups talk loudly among the crowd, passing around plates and sipping from wine glasses. The buzz at Avec reminds me of a popular fondue caf’ÛΩ I visited in Paris, in which patrons have to climb over the table to reach their wall-side booth seat.

The place is crammed at the bar and every table, with eager guests scrunched into the corner by the host stand, escaping the rain and waiting for any seat to open up. This rustic wine bar, associated with Blackbird restaurant, has had much hype about it since it opened almost a decade ago. Avec does not take reservations, and every night has a guaranteed wait of at least 20 minutes for seats.

The wine list features vino inspired by vineyards throughout southwestern Europe, most sold at glass and bottle prices (between $25 and $80 per bottle). Falling on the cheaper end of the list, a $32 pinot noir goes down smooth and light. The menu highlights everyday foods of the Mediterranean, offered in sections by size: small plates, large plates, cheese and charcuterie boards – all meant to be shared.

My meal begins with a bowl of house-marinated olives with warm sourdough bread – a perfect starter. The next course is the whipped brandade (with garlic bread and chives) – creamy, warm, and rib-sticking goodness – a favorite of many repeat guests. The roasted wild king salmon follows, served with fingerling potatoes, lentils, scallions, olives, and yogurt-muscatel vinaigrette that leaves your mouth watering for more. The final course is the marinated hanger steak, artfully paired with shaved artichoke, crimini, pine nuts, and parmesan – all components bring an unexpected light flavor to the hanger steak (predominately earthy in flavor). The dish finishes with the crunch of toasted kale chips, a splendid addition.

Throughout the meal, glasses stay full with the beverage of your choice. While the staff may seem flustered at times, their support staff seems to never break a sweat, keeping the tables clear and water filled like it is second nature.

Perhaps the greatest downfall of Avec is the hype that surrounds it (not that it’s undeserved). But the buzz around this epic wine bar keeps the line out the door and the communal tables crowded. Unless you know that it’s worth the wait, you may not be willing to wait. Your best bet is to dine with a large group – the wait might be a little longer, but you will get to try more of the menu!